Why Altered Conformation Matters

The United Kennel Club (UKC) is an international registry that's a bit older than the Canadian Kennel Club. Among some of the unique aspects of the UKC (which includes a moratorium on professional handlers) is a commitment to offering altered conformation at all their shows.

CKC clubs can offer altered and some areas of the country have embraced this optional class, but in most areas the opportunity to show an altered dog is few and far between.

The loudest argument I hear against offering altered is that “conformation shows are designed to evaluate breeding stock.”

That argument is flawed in a myriad of ways. First, although it would be difficult to quantify how many dogs being shown are ultimately bred, I'm confident that it would be a surprisingly low percentage. Many owners never intend to breed, conformation is simply a sport for them. Many dogs will fail a health test or be determined to have a poor temperament. Others will be bred but not successfully.

Beyond all of that, it's ludicrous to say that an altered dog isn't a reflection of a breeding program. I'd far rather see several littermates in the ring (including those who've been altered) than one single pup. Seeing more depth and breadth of a litter gives me a much better understanding of what that pairing produced.

There are also many beautiful dogs who've been bred then altered for whatever reason, but they still love to show.

Thanks to science, we can collect males for future breeding, so seeing them out in altered is no less valuable then watching them in regular competition.

Aside from all the questions surrounding breeding stock, altered classes have significant value as they can be an entry into conformation for a new handler. Altered allows an owner to compete with what may be a gorgeous dog that wasn't intended to be a show dog. An entry into altered conformation can prepare an owner for their next dog, who may be one destined for the regular show ring.

Dismissing altered conformation as less worthy or unimportant dismisses those new people who could become the next strident supporter of the dog fancy.

I was beaming with pride watching a lovely bitch I produced take Best Altered in Show recently. I was pried of the dog I'd bred that's as equal a reflection of my program as any other dog I've produced AND proud of the owner who's worked hard to learn with her best canine pal and is now beginning to show the beautiful show prospect from my most recent litter. ❤️

Are Mixed-Breeds healthier than Purebreds?

I love dogs, and that absolutely includes mixed breeds. I spent several years working at a humane society where I cared for literally thousands of mixed-breed dogs (and a fair number of purebred). Most of these dogs were lovely, sweet, clever, fun, and presumably healthy.

I have friends who breed purpose-bred mixes that check all the boxes of a reputable breeder (appropriate and applicable health testing, mindful pairings of proven dogs, enriched upbringing, breeder support, etc.). They breed amazing dogs, and I refer people to them as enthusiastically as I do any of the great purebred breeders I know.

There are absolutely health problems within any breed. Diligent testing and mindful pairings have allowed many breed communities to make great strides with health. Still, I regularly hear that mixed-breed dogs are healthier than purebred dogs solely because they are mixed-breed vs purebred. People will tell about their mixed breed who lived a healthy 18 years. I'll tell them about my IG who lived a healthy 18 years and my poodle a healthy 17. We can all trot out germain anecdotes. But what about data?

The most common proof I'm shown is insurance premiums. Insuring a purebred is more expensive because they have more health problems. But...is that accurate? The algorithm behind insurance premiums is no doubt convoluted, but the basics are that your premiums are based on the claims submitted by owners of the same breed in your region. (This is why you're asked for breed and postal code/zip code for a quote). Whether regions are based on geographic size or population, if you have a less common breed, then the number of your breed in any region will be low and this will dramatically skew results.

The overall percentage of dogs insured in North America is very low. About 10 years ago, it hovered around 2 %. Let's say it's doubled (it hasn't) and it's now 4%. This is extremely relevant because we aren't talking about the numbers of a breed in a region, which could be low with an uncommon breed. We're talking about the numbers of insured dogs of an uncommon breed within a region, which could be infinitesimal.

In fact, you might have the only insured dogs of xyz breed within your region, and any claims YOU make will then result in an increase in your OWN premiums (this happened to a friend of mine in an uncommon but not rare breed).

In any given region, you might have one or two of a certain breed compared with hundreds of mixed breeds. So the resulting data showing that purebred dogs have more claims than mixed breed dogs is based on skewed numbers, tiny demographics, and simply isn't reliable.

I suspect most breed fanciers will tell you that poorly bred examples of their breed have more health issues. This is certainly true in Dalmatians. And this further skews the data. In region X with 10 Dalmatians, how many are well bred? So not only is data based on very small numbers, it's not representative of well-bred dogs?

All this to say.... mixed-breed dogs aren't inherently healthier than purebred dogs. Those breeders who are diligently testing and using test results as one tool to guide their breeding decisions (in addition to combing pedigrees for risk factors we can't yet test for) are improving overall health, regardless of whether they're breeding a purebred or a mix.

Find a great breeder for your best chance at a healthy dog OR adopt a beautiful dog from a reputable rescue knowing their health is unknown but they’re worth that risk!

Always Choose Kindness

In the age of social media, as we sit behind our screens, it can be easy to forget that we’re speaking to real people, that our words matter, and that an offhand comment may hurt someone deeply or steal their joy.

There are entire Facebook groups devoted to conformation critique. In the purebred fancy, we are inundated with ads (often depicting regrettably photoshopped dogs). It can be easy to make snap judgements based on one photo or one moment in time. I’ve done it myself. Based solely on pics I felt a dog in our breed was mediocre. When I had the pleasure of seeing the same dog in real life, I was astounded. What a beautiful example of the breed. Pictures are just a moment in time and not all dogs photograph well.

It’s all too easy to steal someone’s joy. It can be as simple as being dismissive about a title that someone has worked hard for, a comment about how a photo doesn’t show someone’s dog well, or comparing your success to someone else’s.

We often lament that dog sports are dying (particularly conformation). It behooves us all to be welcoming, supportive, and caring - and beyond keeping the sport alive, can’t we all just choose kindness?

Let’s say, hypothetically, that you take it upon yourself to tell somebody that their heavily marked Dalmatian should “never have been shown” and they should “learn the standard”.

First, the person you are speaking to is, presumably, fully aware of their dog’s appearance. Perhaps they’re just more interested in things like overall conformation and balance, health, and fabulous temperament than they are about something that is purely decorative.

Second, and more importantly, they didn’t ask for your opinion.

Let’s say this same person said something very similar to a brand new competitor with their first Dalmatian and their first show dog. Except this time, the words were so hurtful and discouraging that this person never showed their dog again. (Hypothetically).

Don’t be the reason someone leaves the sport.

In Dalmatians, most of the dogs are owner-handled. If you are speaking to the person at the end of the lead, it is probably an owner who absolutely adores their dog and will take your comments very personally. We are all thin-skinned when it comes to our own dogs.

Be the person lifting someone up. Be the person who welcomes someone new, even if you think their dog isn’t competitive. Don’t offer a negative opinion unless it is explicitly asked for.

I’m so fortunate to have wonderful, experienced, caring mentors. They will always be fully honest with me (thank goodness) but also kind (also thank goodness).

Encourage new people. Celebrate their wins, even if you think that title was “easy” or isn’t a “real sport.” Many years ago, I worked in Animal Control and humane societies. Those jobs had a very lasting impression on me. After seeing so many dogs languish in backyards or on chains with owners who could barely be bothered to feed them, I am simply thrilled to see anyone out doing anything fun with their dog.

We all start somewhere. Sometimes it is with a less competitive dog, or in a very entry-level sport. Who cares? Celebrate people’s successes. Encourage them, welcome them, and be kind to them.

Let’s all try and choose kindness.

How Can I Help Stop Puppy Mills?

We’ve all seen the heart-wrenching photos. Skinny dogs in dirty cages. Wide eyed and shying away from the camera. Filthy water. Stained coats. How can we help?

1. Only buy from reputable breeders or ethical rescues

   Reputable breeders ARE NOT the ones filling shelters with dogs - virtually all reputable breeders will have a clause in their contracts that any dog they have produced that needs a new home for any reason must go back to them.

   Reputable breeders are also spending significant timing screening homes and painstakingly matching the right puppy to the right home to decrease the chance that this dog will ever need another home. (though things happen, lives change, your breeder should always be there to support you).

   Reputable breeders should also be there to support their puppy homes throughout the pup’s entire life, providing advice and helping ensure the puppy thrives.

2. Support ethical rescue organizations and shelters

   They’re out there doing the tough work, cleaning up after the mills and BYBs who don’t care where their pups end up as long as they sell. They’re taking in the older breeding dogs that are dumped or the puppies who don’t sell and they need our support. Whether that is as a foster home, with a financial donation, or help with transport - reach out and help where you can.

   Adopt a Dalmatian from an ethical rescue or shelter. These dogs will have been vetted and often spent time in a foster home so the organization can give you a good idea of personality and temperament.

3. Don’t buy fad colours or coats. Breeders focusing on one out-of-standard trait are not reputable.

4. NEVER buy from a puppy mill or pet store

   No reputable breeder will allow their pup to be sold in a pet store, or through a website where you choose from pics and purchase a puppy like a pair of shoes. These pups are sourced from mills and BYBs. Not all will be the horror-scape of starving dogs, some will be large and clean and well staffed. Either way, they are a mill, turning out pups as a commodity with no care for where they go or what happens next. Same goes for the BYBs who say they just LOVE their Dals so decided to breed, or had an “accident” and have a litter. If the breeder isn’t doing all the recommended health testing, making mindful pairings with proven dogs, enriching pups lives with mindful socialization to improve stability and resilience, providing lifetime support…..do not give them your money.

   But what about that cute puppy in the window? You have to walk away. Even though it will break your heart. If you buy that puppy, you fuel the machine, more puppies are bred, more dogs live in misery.

   What will happen if you don’t buy that puppy? If we ALL DO NOT BUY THAT PUPPY then the breeder will stop breeding. They are breeding to make money. Puppies that don’t sell cost them money and will be relinquished to a rescue.

   Every dog deserves a wonderful life filled with love. When you are tempted to buy the sad puppy in a pet store (or on a website) - remember that their sire and dam and all their future littermates ALSO deserve a wonderful life. Don’t fuel the greed that created that pup.

   Go to the rescue, support them and adopt that pup and give them the great life they deserve.

Should you breed your dog?

We all love our dogs SO much, it can make sense to think about breeding. Here are some things to think about if you're considering breeding your dog.

1) Do you have “full rights” to your dog?

Many purebred dogs are sold on limited registration or non-breeding contracts. Going against a written contract could result in hefty fines or loss of ownership of your dog. If you have full rights, then hopefully those came with a strong mentor in the breed :).

2) Does your dog meet the breed standard?

As lovers of this breed, it behooves us to preserve the work that came before us and breed to the written standard. No doubt your dog is gorgeous - but are they breed standard? The best way to confirm this is to pursue a Championship with a recognized kennel club (Canadian Kennel Club, American Kennel Club, or United Kennel Club in North America). A championship is NOT the be all and end all, but it should be a basic confirmation of meeting the standard.

The cost to show to a championship can be all over the map depending on distance to shows, competition, etc. Budget at least $1,000 but don’t be surprised if it is more.

For example, one weekend at a show can involve: Entry fees x 3 ($120), Fuel + Lodging ($400) - and could result in zero points. Add in handler fees if you decide not to show yourself and add at last $300 to that estimate for 1 weekend.

In addition to a championship, having a mentor is so important if you are considering breeding. A great mentor will be both kind and honest. It is SO EASY to be “kennel blind”. We love our dogs SO MUCH and OF COURSE we think they are the best! Everyone should think their dog is the best. But if you are thinking about breeding, it is important that you are breeding only those dogs that will preserve the history of our beloved breed

BUT WAIT: What if I am breeding “just” pets?

First, there is no such thing as “just” a pet. Being a beloved pet is one of the most important jobs a dog can have. However, breeding to standard still matters even if your goals aren’t to produce the next top winning show dog. The Dalmatian standard addresses structure and conformation. The form of our beautiful athletes prescribes their function. Being built soundly means they can run and play and keep up on our adventures for the next 14 years.

3) Does your dog have a stable temperament?

Again, we all love our dogs and think they are the best. Whether we ARE hoping to produce the next show dog, the next top performance dog, or “just” pets, a stable temperament is a must. No doubt your dog is lovely at home, but can they handle crowds? Loud noises? Other dogs?

I would love to see ALL dogs being bred have some objective demonstration of a stable temperament. Maybe a novice obedience title that shows a dog can be handled by a judge and stay in a line up of other dogs? Maybe a specific temperament test? The more the better!

Budget around $1,000 for this at a minimum, which will include some training classes and trial entries.

4) Have you completed the appropriate health testing?

Dalmatians require relatively few tests to achieve their Canine Health Information Center (CHIC) number. This number substantiates that all the recommended tests have been done. important - this doesn’t mean that the results are good, just that the tests are done - buyer beware and go and LOOK at the results if you are evaluating a potential pairing. Depending on where you live, you are likely going to need to invest about $2,000 in this testing.

Beyond the basics of health testing - are there any other issues that you could be passing on? I am extremely disappointed when I see people breeding dogs with issues like allergies that many experts believe have a genetic component.

This is also where a DEEP DIVE into pedigrees is important. We have issues in our breed that can not (yet) be tested for, but are serious. Do you know the history of issues like Copper Storage Disease and Epilepsy behind your dog? Do you know the same history for pairings you are considering? Choosing a male because it is near you is very often not the best choice from a health perspective.

This is where your mentor(s) comes in again! This sort of wealth of knowledge is simply impossible for someone newer to the breed. Ask your mentor about potential pairings - they can give feedback on how the pairing might impact conformation, spotting, and what health risks might be lurking in each pedigree. NO PEDIGREE is free from these issues because we can’t test for them (yet). This also relies on all breeders being honest and transparent - which sadly doesn’t always happen.

Importantly - investing in health testing for YOUR dog is great, but doesn’t give you the full picture. Health testing is about generations of data. If you don’t have that data behind your dog - you don’t know what might be in their pedigree that could cause issues.

Bringing puppies into the world is such a big responsibility, in so many ways - and one of those ways is doing everything we can to ensure the healthiest possible puppies. All the testing and planning in the world won’t guarantee pups that’ll be healthy their whole lives - but it sure improves their chances. No breeder wants to be responsible for breeding a pup that devastates their new family by tragically dying young or having a crippling issue.

If you have been through all of the above - and it is all green lights….let’s dive into the actual breeding and whelping portion!

1) Pregnancy and whelping comes with risks. Despite the best medical care and preparation, it is absolutely possible to lose some or all of the puppies and/or the dam. One of the first pieces of advice I received about breeding was “don’t breed if you aren’t willing to lose your dam”. What a heartbreaking thought! But also a realistic one. MOST pregnancies and whelpings proceed smoothly. But sometimes they don’t - and can end in total tragedy.

If you were thinking it might be nice to let your family experience a whelping - you also need to consider that this could be a disaster where you lose your beloved family pet.

Pregnancy and whelping also comes with A LOT of expenses! Are you prepared for an emergency c-section that could easily be $5,000 (or more) depending on where you live.

Even without an emergency - there are a lot of costs that add up.

• Progesterone test leading up to breeding to confirm appropriate timing: $750

• Stud fee: $1,500

• Appropriate nutrition throughout pregnancy: $250

• Whelping supplies: $1000

• Appropriate pre-natal deworming: $50

• Puppy food: $250

• Puppy vet checks + deworming + microchips: $1,000

• Puppy first vaccines: $1,000

• BAER testing $1,000

• Cleaning supplies etc.: $250

2) Whelping and neonatal care is a TON of work!

You and your dog are partners in this. You need to be there in case Dam or pups need help. Expect loss of sleep, time off work (lost wages), and so much worry. Pups are so fragile and so much can go wrong. If the Dam gets ill or dies - you are left caring for the pups - which includes feeding and stimulating them to potty every 2 hours, round the clock.

Even when everything goes smoothly, it is so much work, time, effort, worry….and also so rewarding!

3) Finding great homes involves A LOT! To me, this is the hardest, scariest, and ultimately most rewarding part of bringing puppies into the world. Watching puppies living their best lives with wonderful families has been so beautiful and meaningful.

Everyone who's been "in dogs" for any amount of time has heard HORROR stories of people who sounded like a great home but then neglected or abused a pup. These stories keep me up at night.

Not as frightening, but still crucial, is ensuring the right pup is in the right home. Matching a high octane pup to a family seeking a calm pet isn't setting either side up for success. I have the utmost faith in the ability of the wonderful homes on my list to rise to any challenge, but the best recipe for success is to have the right fit from the start.

Most engaged prospective homes who've done their research are seeking dogs that have been proven in the show ring (demonstrating appropriate conformation which is important for a long, healthy, active life) and additionally some objective demonstration of stable temperaments (obedience titles, therapy dog certification etc), who's sire and dam have had all the appropriate and recommended health testing, and choosing careful pairings.

The prospective owners who are NOT looking for "everything" in a potential puppy are not ones I would likely feel confident placing a puppy with. Spend any time on breed Facebook pages and you will see people who are looking to rehome their dog for a variety of reasons. I want homes that are as committed to my puppies as I am.

I have found that for every 10 people I speak with, 1 ends up on my list. For the other 9, perhaps I didn’t feel they were the right fit, or timing didn’t suit them, etc. It takes a really significant amount of time to connect with people and narrow down a solid list.

4) Being an accountable breeder means being able to support your homes for the life of the pups you produce, including taking them back at any time, for any reason. Do you have the space and time to accommodate a new dog with no notice? Can you afford to feed and vet a new addition until you find them an appropriate new home?

Ultimately…

Breeding is about more than two Dalmatians, more than 2 registered Dalmatians with full ownership/no non-breeding restrictions, more than 2 Dalmatians with no restrictions who have appropriate health testing... etc. If you really love this breed and want to preserve it, a pairing is about finding dogs who's conformation compliments each other, where you're not doubling up on health risks, with great hearing results for generations, and stable, proven temperaments. Breeding (properly) is certainly NOT a good way to make money, (it can be a very effective way to lose money!) and involves so much risk and so many challenges.

To Alter or Not?

There's an emerging body of evidence suggesting that it's beneficial to wait to alter our dogs until they're mature. The research indicates that avoiding pediatric altering is even more crucial for certain breeds, but that all breeds can benefit from sex hormones as they mature. Although more research is needed, these findings are certainly logical. These hormones have a role, and removing them before maturity seems illogical.

At Bedlam Acres, we encourage owners to wait to alter until their pups are mature, around 12 mos for girls and 18 mos for boys. As Dalmatians carry the genetic predisposition to forming urate urinary crystals, ensuring males have a properly formed and mature urethra is beneficial beyond overall maturity.

Should we alter at all?

This is a question that will have a different answer for each home. Those owners wishing to board their dogs when they go away may find it difficult to find a kennel that will take their intact pet.

Intact dogs may be less likely to mesh and play well with other males, I liken my young intact males to frat boys who won't start a fight but are hoping another dog might.

Though it's very doable, managing a girl through seasons is an added challenge and hassle. Each season an intact girl goes through increases their risk of mammary tumours, and any season a girl isn't bred is a risk for pyometra (a serious and potentially fatal infection of the uterus). Neither of these risks are astronomically high, many girls go through life intact without a pyo and without developing mammary tumours, but they're arguably unnecessary risks in a girl with no plans to breed.

Boys can be a bit simpler. Without the management of seasons, it's simply being a responsible dog owner and not allowing your dog to breed. Some intact males will have challenging behaviours associated with testosterone including mounting, marking, distraction around in-season females etc. In some dogs, this can be well managed with training, in others perhaps not.

Hazzard was always a very easy intact male. He could hike with other intact males without issue, was manageable around in-season girls until they were in standing season/had ovulated, and could work through the distraction of girls in season at events (his partner for his BH was in standing season).

I elected to neuter Hazzard at 5 having bred him twice and collected him for future breedings. Even in a dog who wasn't much of a handful intact, the difference was remarkable. When the next round of in-season heathens came around, Hazzard was sniffy but otherwise calm and never had to be separated (I always supervise my dogs).

Peril is a different experience as an intact male. When a girl is in season at a show he is ultra distracted. He's incredibly well-trained and can work through many other distractions, but this is too much for him. I always think of these two boys when people say "just train your boy!"....I mean....yes, but that's oversimplified. There's a wide spectrum of boys, and some just can't focus with girls in season.

I've had intact males pass away at the end of their life still intact, and others I've chosen to neuter. Old boys can run into prostate issues which can usually easily be solved by neutering, but an older dog may have other underlying issues (like cardiac) which makes a simple routine surgery more challenging and risky.

Long story short? Altering or not (and timing) will differ with different homes. Are there intact dogs of both sexes? Manageable, but challenging (and often frustrating). Are these dogs that may be boarded, or frequently around many other dogs? Altering them may make these interactions simpler. Altering a male is certainly not a panacea for all behaviours, but removing the majority of their testosterone could definitely help.

I have no doubt that responsible homes can be equally responsible with intact animals. I have non-breeding contracts, not contracts requiring altering. When making the decision for your own home, talk to your veterinary team (but also remember that in North America the average is 80% of pets are altered and the teaching used to be pediatric altering, so your vet team may have a different perspective), talk to your breeder (and remember their contract may include guidelines for timing), and be honest about what you and your family can reasonably manage.

Socialization

What is socialization ?

It's not meeting every person and every dog you pass.

It's not bringing your puppy to the dog park to let them play.

Its not about only walking them around the block.

It's about carefully curating experiences that will expose your pup to new sights, sounds, smells, footing, etc, without overwhelming them, without teaching them that every person or dog they pass is their new best friend, and without letting their world be so narrow that they shy away from new experiences.

Socialization is about building a stable, confident, resilient dog.

Socialization, particularly within the crucial socialization period of 4 to 16 weeks, is about preparing your dog to handle the world around them. To be exposed to different sights, sounds, and experiences, and allow them to "practice" resilience.

Socialization can build on a great genetic temperament, creating a stable dog who's calm in crowds, who might startle at a loud noise but promptly recover, who's curious rather than cautious, wanting to explore the world.

Socialization can improve on a genetically poor temperament, allowing a shy dog to be more outgoing and a nervous dog to be more stable, but the most robust socialization plan won't "fix" a poor temperament. If your goal is a stable dog who can be a joy to bring along to patios, travel with, and join you on adventures, step one is choosing the right breed and right breeder.

Socialization with the Breeder

Long before the key socialization window opens at 4 weeks, great breeders have begun socialization and specific exercises to promote resilience, stability, and comfort being handled.

Puppies are handled daily to ensure they are thriving, they are weighed daily (or twice a day), their nails are trimmed regularly, eyes and ears are checked, etc. Many breeders introduce Early Neurological Stimulation (ENS) beginning at day 3 and continuing daily until day 16. This period of growth is believed to be a time of rapid neurological development.

ENS was developed by the US Military to improve the performance of future working dogs. Puppies are handled one at a time while performing a series of five exercises. The breeder completes all 5 exercises with one puppy before moving on to the next.

1. Tactile Stimulation - using a Q-tip to tickle the pup between the toes on any one foot

2. Head held erect - using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground so that its head is directly above the tail.

3. Head pointed down - holding the pup firmly with both hands, the head is reversed and pointed downward.

4. Supine position - holding the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with muzzle facing the ceiling.

5. Thermal stimulation - using a damp towel that has been cooled in the fridge, the pup is placed on the towel feet down

Each of these exercises lasts 3 to 5 seconds.

Throughout your future puppy’s development, great breeders are actively working to safely and appropriately socialize them. Baby puppies should be meeting a variety of people (kids, seniors, beards, hats, etc), other household dogs, walking on a variety of surfaces, being exposed to new sounds and sights (all while practicing appropriate biosecurity).

Programs like Puppy Culture can be a great guide for breeders, helping them make the most of the socialization period. Although we use and love Puppy Culture, I'd never consider it a red flag if a breeder didn't. While my mentors may not specifically follow Puppy Culture, they are doing a fabulous job of safely socializing their pups, and have been long before Puppy Culture existed. It isn't about using a certain program (or not), it's about being fully dedicated to giving pups the best start possible, in health, nutrition, early training, and socialization.

Socialization at Home

Once you bring your puppy home, it's your responsibility to continue their socialization- for their whole life, but particularly until the end of that first, key, socialization window. Just like with the breeder, socialization in a puppy has to be balanced with safety. There's no one right answer. Different homes will have different risks in their areas. Some local parks may be appropriate for a walk, some may not be.

Absolutely avoid any dog park or high dog traffic area until vaccines are complete (and maybe forever, many dog parks are not appropriate places to take your dog), but absolutely do not wait until vaccines are complete until you begin socialization!

Get your puppy out in crowds (farmers market? Garden center? Dog show as a novice puppy?), get your puppy around a variety of people (friend's homes with no dogs or fully vaccinated adult dogs? Nursing home visit with permission? Cub scout meeting?). Get your puppy out around sounds (car show? Skatepark?) Get your puppy out. Every day.

When I have a new pup we go on an adventure every day. Maybe it's a conservation area that has metal steps for new footing, maybe it's hanging out at the skatepark to hear the noise of skateboards and kids shouting, maybe it's to walk through a garden center and walk on gravel, sniff different plants....every day, something new.

Before the Cabin in the Woods pups went home, they went to the auto shop my husband works at to chill in my car while listening to loud machines. They went to visit a friend's elderly dog-loving mum and milled around her walker and toddled around her basement. They went to a friend's studio for a photoshoot.

Right from 3 weeks old, every day they had a new experience. A new toy in their pen, a new obstacle to climb, an introduction to water, etc.

What Socialization Is and Isn’t

As you head out with your pup, remember that socializing is about being calm and curious, and being exposed to new sights, sounds, and smells. It isn't about meeting every person or dog. Meeting people it great! (And super important) But being around new people and not greeting everyone is also important!

Learning to focus on you when there are distractions lays the foundation for a sport dog who can focus in a crowd, or a pet dog who is calm and relaxed on a patio.

I'm a firm believer in NO on leash meetings with other dogs. Too many random dogs in public are unfriendly or unstable. On leash greetings prevent dogs from exercising normal body language and can create problems. And I very much do not want my dog pulling towards every dog we pass. Meet your friends' stable dogs in their yard or yours. Meet up at safe off leash areas (not off leash parks that too often are a free for all) for playtime.

Socializing a puppy is a big responsibility and is also so much fun. So many tiny adventures with your new best friend. Have a plan, have fun, and set your pup up to be your adventure buddy for the rest of their life.

Walk your dog (please)

A recurring theme on DogBook (and one I’ve been hearing for the 25ish years I’ve been in performance sports) is that walks are simply unnecessary….yikes.

The primary argument is that fitness can be achieved/maintained without walks. I’m willing to concede that could be true (however, I do think skipping walks is skipping the fundamentals of fitness), I would argue that walks provide SO much more than “just” fitness.

Canine Fitness

Although I understand that you can have a fit dog without walks being part of the program, I would argue that the BEST base for fitness is regular off-leash hiking. Why? I think the opportunity to move freely (running, walking, leaping over things, climbing onto things, ducking under things, chasing after dogs, running up and down hills, etc.) is the most natural use of your dog’s incredible body.

Off-leash hiking allows for a wide range of movement with a base level of endurance. On each hike, I see the dogs walk, run, spring, climb, wrestle, and jump. They work their entire bodies.

Beyond Fitness

In addition to the physical benefits of hiking, there are so many emotional/psychological benefits to walks. The opportunity to play, sniff, and explore with some level of freedom is so crucial to our beloved dogs.

Canine Enrichment

There are multiple DogBook groups dedicated to enriching our canine’s lives and I LOVE it! I love that owners are so engaged in what their dogs needs that they join groups to learn how to make meal times more enriching. I maintain that the most enriching thing we can do for our dogs is…let them be dogs.

A dear friend and I used to regularly meet for long hikes where our dogs were able to safely range and explore. We would regularly talk about the importance of balance. My dogs spend plenty of time working hard and being precise - in the performance ring, in our training sessions - and I owe it to them to balance that with (relative) freedom to make their own choices - follow the scent that intrigues them, explore the area that looks interesting, chase each other and roughhouse in a way that isn’t encouraged inside the house :).

What do walks provide to our dogs?

The chance to be….dogs. To use their incredible sense of smell to explore. To use their remarkable bodies to run and leap and play. To use their keen eyes and ears to choose the next place to run.

What happens without walkies?

Dogs need outlets. They need exercise. They need social interaction. Without these, they will develop behaviour problems. Walks aren’t just about exercise - they’re about exploring the world.

Other Forms of Fitness

Can treadmills help with endurance? Yes! Can playing fetch up hills improve explosive power? Yes! Can weight pull improve power? Yes!

The ideal fitness program incorporates a wide range of activities. However, hiking/walking provides base fitness AND a fulfilling activity.

Where to Hike?

For many years, I have had dogs without the luxury of having our own land to hike on. Every day we hopped in the car and drove to a safe and fun place to hike. We hiked in conservation areas in the off-season. We hiked in private forests (with land owner permission). We hiked dog friendly areas in off-hours.

Today, there are more options. Many areas have SniffSpots that can be rented for safe an enriching exploration.

Finding an appropriate and safe place isn’t always simple - but it is absolutely worth it.

On-leash walkies are still so valuable. The chance to sniff and explore and see new places is so enriching for your dog.

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So - no matter what else you’re doing for fitness, please, please walk your dog. Let them sniff, let them explore, let them be dogs. We make up their entire world. We decide whether they interact with other people and other dogs, we decide where they go and what they see….we owe it to them to make their world as enriching as possible.

PennHip vs OFA

What are they?

OFA and PennHip are the two versions of radiographs accepted by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) Canine Health Information Centre (CHIC) program to certify hips.

The CHIC is the minimum requirement for health testing before breeding a litter. Dalmatians require OFA eyes OR thyroid, BAER hearing testing, and hips. With such a short list of requirements, there is no excuse for breeding a litter without CHIC numbers for both Sire and Dam.

It is important to remember that CHIC merely certifies that the tests have been done. Do your own due diligence to ensure that the results are favourable!

What is the difference?

The primary difference is that OFA radiographs are evaluated by a panel of 3 board-certified radiologists, giving special attention to the craniolateral acetabular rim, cranial acetabular margin, femoral head, fovea capitis, acetabular notch, caudal acetabular rim, dorsal acetabular margin, junction of femoral head and neck, and trochanteric fossa.

After evaluating these regions, the radiologist provides a subjective grade of excellent, good, fair, borderline, or dysplastic (mild, moderate, severe). 

With Pennhip, a distraction index is calculated by dividing the measured distance between the femoral head center and the acetabular center by the radius of the femoral head.

A distraction index of 0 is the tightest possible reading and a distraction index of 1 represents a fully luxated hip. Dogs with a distraction index of >0.4 are at an increased risk of developing hip dysplasia. 

PennHip Pros:

Timing:

PennHip radiographs can be performed on puppies as young as 16 weeks of age

Consistency:

The distraction index remains static, as opposed to OFA scoring which will vary over time

Accuracy:

Given that the PennHip score is calculated off precise measurements AND is static (does not change over time), it could be argued that this is a more accurate representation of overall hip health as opposed to a subjective grading that will change over time.

PennHip radiographs are more sensitive for detecting hip dysplasia than OFA radiographs

PennHip Cons:

Patient Sedation:

Dogs must be fully anaesthetized to obtain proper PennHip radiographs

Cost/Availability:

The veterinarian and veterinary technician taking the radiographs must complete a training program. There are fewer veterinary practices offering PennHip than OFA, a PennHip clinic may require more travel.

PennHip requires 3 radiographs, OFA requires one. These additional views + cost of anaesthesia + limited availability often results in a higher cost vs OFA radiographs.

OFA Pros:

OFA radiographs do not require any specialized training. However, ensuring your practice is familiar with positioning would still be recommended so as not to get inaccurate results.

Cost:

Because any veterinary team can take the necessary radiograph, only one view is necessary, and sedation is not always required, cost can be lower for OFA.

OFA Cons:

Timing:

Final results can not be given until 24 months (prior to then, you can get a preliminary consultation that can give you some insight on hip quality).

OFA grading can not be performed in pregnant females or females in estrus due to the effects of hormones on joint laxity.

Accuracy:

OFA grading is more subjective than PennHip radiographs and an individual dog’s results can change between reviewers and over time.

Viewing the pros and cons, I will always choose PennHip over OFA to get the most accurate results and best information when planning future pairings.

 Info for this blog came in part from VetPrep.

Fetching up some fun

There are memes making the rounds again that vilify the game of fetch. They typically cite concerns like repetitive strain and high impact, some go into behavioral concerns like obsession and fixation.

One thing that's always bothered me about the message that fetch = bad is that there are so many permutations of fetch. I've never understood how the whole game can be tarred with the same brush.

I've spoken to owners who play fetch, and for them the game means taking their dog to the local tennis courts and hitting the ball. I've spoken to owners where fetch means tossing a ball in a small backyard. I’ve spoken to those where fetch is played in a large area or those who play fetch on forest trails. Each of these versions is distinctly different in both physical and emotional/mental impact.

It seems self-evident that some versions of fetch could lend themselves to injuries. When I think of a dog playing fetch in a tennis court, I worry about worn/torn pads, abrupt stops at the fenced side, and sharp turns in the limited space.

Playing fetch with the Bedlam crew on “fetch hill” is a very different scenario. With an abundance of space, there's no sudden stops or turns. Most often, the dogs track the ball and neatly snap it out of the air as they're running forward. When they turn back to me, they often run past me and make a wide sweep back around. No jarring stops and no abrupt turns.

What does the science say?

Not all that much, tbh. I searched for actual clinical data and research about the impact of playing fetch.

One study, looking at risk factors for cranial cruciate ligament rupture or CCLR, (In the stick of it–a playful pastime with perilous consequences for dogs TIM CHARLESWORTH Veterinary Times 43 (25), 6-8, 2013) actually cited fetch as a low-risk activity:

“Some activities such as fetch games with a ball or disc and swimming had no discernible relationship to CCLR risk.” The same study cited playing agility as a CCLR risk factor.

Let’s look at the behavioural side…

I have heard people talking about how fetch can create obsessive behaviours. I would postulate that dogs with stereotypical/obsessive behaviours will struggle with many issues; fly biting, spinning, light chasing, etc.

While I can see how fetch could be obsessive for these dogs, I'd say it's a symptom, not a catalyst.

Again, I did a search for any true science, either pro or anti-fetch, this time from behavioural perspective. All I could find was a case study, Animal Behavior Case of the Month, looking at persistent tail licking. As part of the treatment (response substitution therapy), the owners were instructed to have the dog fetch a toy or object or to cue any other behaviour that the dog was already trained to perform. In this case, fetch was part of the antidote to an obsessive behaviour.

The upcoming data based om CBARQ may give us some deeper insight into this area.

What about the flip side? For some dogs, fetch appears to be very fulfilling. I'd suggest we (and our dogs) would be better served by finding safe ways to play fetch rather than avoiding it altogether.

Many SAR and HRD handlers use a ball/fetch as a reward for working. These same handlers will use ball focus/commitment to searching for a ball as an indicator of working ability.

One argument that seems particularly spurious is that dogs evolved to stalk prey maybe once a day, not repeatedly chase a ball. As I look around at the myriad of breeds we've created, I question that this is the area where we've concerningly strayed from dogs' evolution.

For the Bedlam crew, fetch is a fun game, a way to get some efficient exercise in on a day where a 3rd hike isn't possible, and a way to round out their fitness with sprints up a hill.

My dogs show me their enthusiasm by exhibiting excitement when I get the Chuckit and balls, by enthusiastically racing after the ball, and by their general demeanour of glee.

Like most things, there's not a full consensus. On one end of the spectrum is Random, where fetch is her very favourite thing. On the other end is Danger, who likes to chase a ball a couple of times, then would rather relax and chew on it. Everyone else falls somewhere in the middle.

I would never do anything that I thought was potentially harmful to my dogs. I research diets, supplements, vaccines and parasitology prevention to make the best and safest choices for my dogs. I learn about structure, rehab, and fitness to keep them healthy and happy and in peak physical condition. I mix up their exercise to be mentally stimulating and give them the best overall conditioning.

Fetch is fulfilling, fun, and functional, and we will continue to play, safely.

Adopt or Shop?

First, let’s be honest. Whether you’re acquiring your dog from a breeder, a shelter, or after endless scrolling through rescues on the internet, you are shopping. As you should be! Acquiring a new dog is not something to be done lightly. Everyone *should* be discerning and “shop” for the perfect fit, regardless of where that lucky pooch is from.

There is an unfortunate stigma attached to working with a breeder. The extreme “ADOPT DON’T SHOP” mentality vilifies breeders and shames anyone who isn’t “rescuing” their new pup. Let’s break this down a bit.

Not all breeders are equal. Preservation breeders produce healthy, stable dogs. They are categorically NOT contributing to a pet overpopulation issue.

1. They speak honestly and openly about their breed when people inquire. Rather than trying to “sell” their breed (or their puppies), they try to give a fair overview of the breed to help a prospective owner determine if this is the right fit for their home and lifestyle.

2. They meticulously screen homes to ensure their beloved pups are going to a home where they will be beloved. They ensure the home is prepared to deal with the energy level, grooming, and general care that comes with their breed. They strive to make matches that result in both pup and people thriving and having a life-long relationship.

3. They do extensive health testing and choose mindful pairings to produce healthy, stable puppies and minimize the risk of any genetic conditions.

4. They provide a lifetime of support. Great preservation breeders are there for advice, support, and mentoring.

5. Almost all preservation breeders have a strict contract ensuring any dog they produce comes back to them if they are ever in the position of not being able to stay with their owner - any reason. any time.

6. IF the worst scenario happens and a well-bred dog lands in a shelter/rescue, their breeder will move heaven and earth to get them back and either keep them or find them an appropriate home.

   Reputable preservation breeders are NOT contributing to shelter populations.

What if the breeder isn’t doing all of the above? WALK AWAY! There are a myriad of bad breeders out there. Breeders who aren’t doing health testing, who aren’t paying attention to temperament, who aren’t making mindful pairings, who aren’t providing support….you and your family deserve the *perfect* dog. Don’t settle for a breeder providing anything less.

It probably goes without saying, but just in case, never buy a puppy from a pet store. Pet store puppies are sourced from a range of breeders, from the worst of the puppy mills to well-run commercial operations. Although one end of the spectrum is much better, it still isn’t where I would choose to source a puppy.

In a pet store, a puppy is just another piece of inventory to be sold to anyone with enough money. No counselling on appropriate breed, no breeder support, no fail safe plan if it doesn’t work out (nothing to stop the pup from landing in a shelter), no knowledge of temperament of sire and dam…..nothing other than a sale.

Purebred or Mixed Breed?

All dogs deserve a loving and wonderful home. I am a huge advocate for shelters and rescues, I support the mindful and responsible breeding of purpose-bred mixes, and I believe in the value of preservation purebred breeders.

(What is a purpose-bred mix? There are people who are doing everything you would expect from a reputable breeder - choosing mindful pairings with clear goals using dogs that have been proven in sports/events, thorough health testing, enhanced puppy rearing, strict contracts, lifetime support, etc - but are breeding mixes designed for a purpose. The purpose may be the next top flyball dog who is a BorderWhippet, or an outstanding ratter like a Linty Lurcher/Bedlington Whippet mix, or the next Iditarod mushing dog Greyster/Greyhound GSP mix)

For my own life, I have had wonderful mixed breed dogs in the past. I now own purebreds and am unlikely to stray far from my current breed (the immeasurable Dalmatian).

Predictability

I know what dog size, energy level, coat maintenance suits my lifestyle. A well-bred purebred provides predictability in temperament, size, and energy. I have been privileged to own multiple amazing dogs in a variety of breeds over my lifetime and I know what suits me (and what doesn’t).

A mixed breed pup from a shelter or rescue can be a GREAT fit - but there are some unknowns. If you absolutely can’t have a dog over 40lb because of housing regulations, gambling on a cute puppy may end in a situation of having to move. 

If your household thrives on peace and quiet, choosing an unknown mixed breed could result in a dog with an energy level more suited to an active family.

Breeder or Shelter?

For the record, I am a HUGE fan of reputable rescues and shelters. I started my career in animal health at the local humane society. It was (and still is!) a well-run organization dedicated to helping animals in need, educating the general public, and adopting dogs and cats (and occasionally other critters) into new homes.

There are wonderful shelters and rescues across the country that could be excellent resources for your next pet.

Whether you choose to shop at a shelter or through a rescue, or shop with a breeder, do so responsibly.

I personally choose to go to great breeders for my dogs because:

Health

• I am looking for healthy animals that will have a long life with me.

Am I saying that rescue dogs aren’t healthy? NO.

What I am saying is that my puppy from a breeder who is doing all the relevant health testing to help prevent issues and produce healthy puppies is giving me the best chance at a healthy pup, minimizing the risk for breed predispositions, and giving me a demonstrable reasonable expectation for a long-lived dog.

Temperament

• I am looking for a stable, sound temperament dog that will enjoy traveling with me, have no issues being around other dogs, comfortably manage crowds, and have an appropriate temperament to train and compete in a variety of sports and events.

Am I saying rescue dogs have inherently unstable temperaments? NO.

There are many wonderful dogs in rescue that will make wonderful pets. However, not knowing the temperament of their sire and dam (and many other relatives), not knowing how they were raised and whether they benefited from early enrichment programs, and not knowing how they react to different situations and stresses makes it harder to know they will be the right fit for my lifestyle.

One of the benefits of working with a Preservation breeder is the solid start they are giving your puppy. Before the pups heads home, dedicated breeders are spending TONS of time exposing them to new experiences, doing early neurological stimulation to help make them more resilient, giving them a head start with socialization and exposing them (safely) to a wide range of people, teaching them the beginnings of good puppy behaviour, and setting them up for success.

Your breeder also knows each puppy SO well that they can place them in the absolute perfect home.

When you bring your new bundle of joy home, you’re bringing home a piece of that breeder’s legacy (and their heart). You’re bringing home a piece of the entire pedigree, so every lovingly, carefully planned litter behind your new furry best friend. You’re bringing home a puppy that was so deeply loved already that they have a great start in life.

Structure and Conformation 

• I am looking for dogs that conform to their standard who could grow into conformation show prospects.

Am I saying that rescue dogs/out-of-standard dogs are less deserving of homes? NO.

All dogs deserve a loving home where they will be cherished. For my personal goals, I choose dogs with a future in the show ring.

Where should you find your next best friend? First, be really honest about your needs/your household needs and decide what breed/type of dog is the right fit. Be honest about your goals and what you need in a new addition to be the right fit.

When my brother decided he wanted a dog, he had two young children. He was planning to go to his local shelter. We talked about what his household needed. He needed a dog with a stable temperament who could be a safe and wonderful companion for his kids (with appropriate supervision and training). He needed a healthy dog who could join his active family on hikes and adventures. He needed a dog who could get along with other dogs in his neighbourhood and at the schoolyard when he picked up and dropped off his kids. Ultimately, we decided a well-bred purebred would fit and found a fantastic breeder. His dog is the absolute perfect dog for him.

Shelters and Rescues (Your new best friend might be waiting for you!)

Just like breeders, there are a myriad of different shelters and rescues. There are well run shelters and rescues and poorly run organizations. No different than finding the right breeder, be discerning about who you work with. 

There are many wonderful dogs in shelters and rescues. Working with a great rescue group could definitely find you your perfect dog. Great shelters/rescues spend time getting to know the dogs in their care. Some work with foster homes where dogs can go to learn basic skills and work on their socialization. 

While in a foster home, the wonderful people caring for the dog are able to observe whether the dog interacts well with other dogs, how they are with cats, how they respond to different people. The shelter/rescue can then use this information to determine what the best fit would be for this dog. 

If you choose to adopt a dog from a shelter or rescue, be prepared that they may come with baggage. They may have missed out on key socialization periods. They may have been treated poorly. You may need to work harder to get to the “perfect” dog, but it will be so rewarding. Again, be honest about your abilities and your resources and don’t take on more than you can handle. Rescue dogs deserve to land in a home that can give them what they need to thrive. 

Of course - ALL dogs need training, effort, and consistency. The benefit of a well-bred pup from a preservation breeder is they have the proper foundations in training and socialization that their new owner can build on to help them become a wonderful family member.

We all deserve to have our perfect dog.

What do dogs cost? Everything. All of it. And they’re worth so much more.

Weight Pull

The sport, the drama, the controversy

Although Weight Pull is a sport dominated by power breeds like Pitbulls and Corsos, I was introduced by a mentor and her Greyhounds.

Perhaps because I was introduced to the sport by a highly respected pillar of the dog community (and her decidedly non-aggressive, beautiful Greyhounds), I was unprepared for the controversy that seems to follow the sport.

Why do I do Weight Pull? That’s the easiest answer, because my dogs love it! Why is there controversy? That’s more complicated….

Safety

One of the most common objections I hear to Weight Pull is that it isn’t safe. Without fail, this objection is being raised by someone with absolutely no first-hand knowledge of the sport.

In my nearly 30 years (yikes!) of competing in dog sports, I have seen a catastrophic, life-ending injury in agility and in lure coursing. I would not consider either of those sports to be inherently dangerous. I have not seen any accidents in Weight Pull. Accidents can happen in any activity, and sports that have a significant component of speed may be a higher risk.

Weight pull is considered to be a very safe sport by canine sports professionals, veterinary orthopaedic surgeons, and knowledgeable competitors.

Weight Pull is a low-impact sport. The movement of the cart/sled is slow and steady. The best form involves no starting and stopping, no jerking, just smooth and steady movement. Like any sport, teaching proper form and learning under the guidance of someone knowledgeable is key!

Anyone who has done serious weight training or recovered after a significant orthopaedic surgery is likely to be familiar with pushing a sled of weight (pushing vs pulling suits our bi-pedal movement, plus no harnesses!).

This is always my first thought when some naysayer types, “why don’t you try it?!”. Umm, I have. A lot. Pushing weight around on a sled was a consistent part of my weight training when I was boxing & kickboxing. The only significant difference is I never got a cookie for doing well. Seems unfair, really.

Old dogs compete in weight pull. Dogs compete in weight pull after they’ve had orthopaedic surgery. Dogs diagnosed with hip dysplasia are often encouraged to try out weight pull.

Teach your dog proper form. Build them up slowly. Pay attention to their overall conditioning, and Weight Pull will be safe.

The Harness is Key

Part of keeping your dog safe is investing in a properly fitted, expertly made harness. The best weight pull harnesses have a neck roll to distribute force and protect the shoulders and a spreader bar to prevent lateral compression when pulling a heavy load.

There are only a handful of harness makers out there and most have long wait lists - the wait is worth it so if your dog enjoys pulling, get a harness ordered!

It’s All Up to Your Dog

You & Your Dog are a Team

Weight Pull is done fully off lead, you may not touch your dog, their collar, the harness, or anything. If your dog doesn’t WANT to pull, they won’t!

The early stages of Weight Pull are more mental than physical. Your dog needs to believe they can pull when they feel the resistance of the weight.

You learn how to encourage your dog so that they believe in themselves as much as you believe in them!

You build up slowly to heavy weights - both for mental and physical conditioning. You learn as a team what works and what doesn’t. You learn to read your dog and know when they’re ready for a heavier weight and when they’d benefit from an easy pull.

Everyone can Play

One of the great things about Weight Pull is it is a single-dog event that a lot of power breeds who may have inherent dog aggression compete in. The flow of competitors is designed to minimize or fully avoid contact between dogs. Dog aggressive OR human aggressive dogs can absolutely compete - just be honest about your dog’s space requirements!

Pulls are calculated based on your dog’s weight. This levels the playing field between the heavily muscled power breeds and the lean sprinters and everyone in between.

More than once, Hazzard has won “Most Weight Pulled per Pound”. It doesn’t matter that he didn’t pull as much as the Corso that went after him, he pulled more compared to his own body weight.

You control at what weight your dog starts pulling and you decide when they’re done. (For Novive or “A” competitors, there is a strict maximum weight based on your dog’s body weight). If your dog isn’t feeling it or isn’t having fun, you simply say you’re done!

Not every dog will love weight pull. For the ones that do, it can be a great sport that encourages fitness and gives energetic and powerful dogs a safe outlet.

The Importance of Mentors

A shout out to mentors!

First, I owe so very much to Pam of Rockstar Dalmatians. Trusting me with amazing, magical, unicorn Random was the start of so much.

Next, she trusted me with Hazzard, which allowed me to start my conformation journey with an outstanding dog. Learning conformation is a ton more fun if you're doing a lot of winning!

At the height of covid, Pam had a litter that I desperately wanted a puppy from. She, her wonderful vet, and I worked together to navigate the nightmare of a closed border + new CFIA dog importation regulations. It seemed like every day I was asking Pam to jump through a new hoop, complete a new form, send off something else. Pam did it all calmly, kindly, and without complaint. She was as determined as I was that Peril should join my home.

Beyond trusting me with three amazing pieces of her kennel, genetics, and legacy, Pam has also been a huge source of support, knowledge, and guidance. She's a friend and one of our most enthusiastic cheerleaders!

Next, huge appreciation to Beth of Prestige Dalmatians for helping me choose the right puppy to potentially grow into a match for Hazzard. That's not the typical way to plan a future pairing, and Beth trusted me with a piece of her kennel and wonderful genetics in Danger.

Beth has never been further away than a phone call or email. Quick to help and support, and always proud of everything Danger and I do together!

Karen and Ross of Brightspot Dalmatians welcomed me to the breed from day one. Some of their program goes back to dogs from Pam/Rockstar and they’ve always treated me like part of the family.

They've been a source of support, generous with their time and knowledge, and have gone out of their way to mark and celebrate all our achievements.

I was honoured when Brightspot chose Hazzard for their litter with Lani and am so very pleased with the resulting gorgeous, happy, puppies. If I had space, I'd eagerly be taking a puppy home, but in a truly unselfish act on the part of Karen & Ross, I get to do the next best thing.

Karen and Ross are entrusting a friend of Bedlam with a beautiful show prospect, but instead of them co-owning this pup, I will be. This allows me to continue to build the BedlamAcres name, be part of the journey with Hazzard's second litter, and actively mentor and support someone new to the breed.

Pam, Beth, Karen, and Ross have not only supported and believed in me, they've also demonstrated good sportsmanship and modeled how to bring new people into this amazing breed.

What’s the Deal with Health Testing?

Spend any time scrolling through DogBook and you will see a ton of references to health testing. Is breeder X doing health testing? Did breeder Y post their health results? Is breeder Z claiming health-tested pups with no proof?

First, what exactly IS health testing? In a very broad sense, health testing is done on a prospective sire and dam BEFORE deciding to breed them to reduce the risk of any inheritable conditions and give the greatest chance of producing healthy puppies.

Nearly each breed has a recommended set of health tests decided upon by their breed club and publicly available on the OFA breed list. Once the recommended health testing is completed on a dog, they will be issued a CHIC number demonstrating that they have completed their breed-specific testing.

Buyer Beware #1: A CHIC demonstrates that the health testing has been done NOT that the results were good! A dog could fail every single recommended test and still be issued a CHIC. It certifies the testing has been completed, that is all.

Buyer Beware #2: Health testing should be completed BEFORE a pairing is decided upon, not after a breeding has been done. This isn’t necessarily black and white, even the most responsible breeders can have an accidental litter, and it’s far better to complete health testing following a breeding than not health test - but Preservation Breeders who are carefully planning their future pairings will ensure all health testing is completed before they breed.

A CHIC can be searched on the OFA site, or you can search by the dog’s registered name, so you can independently verify results.

What about a genetic panel?

Many breeders will decide to do a genetic panel (common companies are Embark or UCDavis). Some breeds require some genetic tests for a CHIC.

Although a genetic panel can be beneficial information, it is NOT a substitute for appropriate health testing. Like many facets of medicine, we are continuing to learn more and more about genetics, and tests are evolving. Today, not every test is diagnostic or valuable for every breed.

A mediocre breeder may do a genetic panel and proudly proclaim their dogs are free from “250 different genetic concerns”, but perhaps only 3 of those tests actually apply for their breed.

So what IS proper health testing?

The common tests you will see across many breeds are things like hips, which can either be OFA or PennHip, both require radiographs interpreted by specialists, or eyes which require an exam by an ophthalmologist.

Some breeds require more, but for every breed you are looking at a decent monetary investment in completing required testing.

Let’s take a look at Dalmatians….

For a CHIC, Dalmatians have it pretty easy. They must have BAER testing for hearing, but virtually all reputable breeders do this before puppies are placed. They must have hips (OFA or PennHip), and eyes OR thyroid.

**Side note I follow the teachings of one of my mentors and believe that Thryoid, though optional, is actually one of the most important tests. Many experienced Dal breeders believe that a dog with failing thyroid results is not only at risk for developing autoimmune thyroiditis, but also at a higher risk for other autoimmune issues, many of which are devastating.**

With such basic requirements for CHIC, it’s hard to make an argument not to do BOTH eyes and thyroid. I also like to see an echo done by a cardiologist. Although this is not a requirement, I do believe there are cardiac problems in the breed, and I would be devastated to produce pups with a cardiac issue.

Buyer Beware #3: An owner has the ability to have OFA not publish failing results. Not only is this shady with respect to breeding practices, but it also does a disservice to the entire breed. Every single breed has genetic predispositions. The only way we can continue to improve the health within a breed is through rigorous testing and transparency with results.

There is NO reason not to submit results to OFA. The fee for submission is $20; compared to the price of health testing it is nothing.

Why doesn't every breeder do full health testing?

Money. These tests are an investment. Prices range WILDLY across the country, but as a rough breakdown for Dalmatians:

• BAER: again - almost always done by the breeder - but approximately $800 for the litter

• CAER: if you can find a health clinic - this one is pretty inexpensive! Many clinics are around $50

• Thyroid: simple and non-invasive, but not super-cheap. Around $400

• OFA Hips: $500

• PennHip: $1,000

• Echocardiogram: At a heart clinic? $350ish, as a standalone appt? $800ish

Although not inexpensive, these tests are invaluable. If a breeder isn’t doing at least the minimum for a CHIC, find a different breeder. Your future puppy’s health could depend on it!

Why go to a Preservation Breeder?

The term Preservation Breeder refers to those breeders who are working to preserve the breed standard and breed type.

These are reputable breeders who are doing all the health testing recommended by the breed club (and often more). These breeders are carefully choosing pairings after exhaustive reviews of pedigrees to look for complimentary dogs and avoid the risk of medical or temperament concerns that we don’t have tests for.

These breeders are breeding to produce puppies that will excel in the conformation ring AND performance rings AND be fabulous family pets.

All of this is what sets them apart from the BYB who produce puppies without any thought to long-term impact and no planning beyond easily accessible males and females.

Or from the mills with hundreds of dogs produced like livestock for money.

Or even from the mediocre breeders who might show occasionally and do some health testing but aren’t deterred by some poor health tests or aren’t concerned about poor temperaments or aren’t concerned about faults and poor structure.

What is the value of a preservation breeder?

1. The planning before your puppy exists

   Preservation breeders are always on the look out for a great potential pairing. They are attending shows and liaising with other breeders to find potential prospects.

   They then pour over pedigrees looking for any red flags such as risks of medical issues that can’t currently be tested for. They either have the knowledge themselves or work with those who do to comment on individual dogs - what their type and temperament was like, any medical concerns, what sort of litters they produced - this sort of generational knowledge is invaluable.

   **quick shout out here to all the breeders who have shared their knowledge and time with me!**

2. The care while your puppy is developing

   Preservation breeders are always learning and evolving their practices. They are paying attention to appropriate nutrition for the dam while she is growing your future pup. They are working closely with their veterinary team to ensure appropriate and safe deworming to keep your future pup safe. They are carefully avoiding any high risk situations where the dam could contract a virus that would also impact your future pup.

   When your future pup arrives, they are there supporting the dam and helping if needed. They have their vet clinic on speed dial in case of an emergency. They are well-stocked with whelping supplies and have prepared a safe, comfortable area for the dam to whelp and nurture your new pup.

   As the pups grow, they are intervening to feed as needed. They are weighing regularly and tracking growth to ensure all pups are thriving. They are adding enrichment like early neurological stimulation or early introduction to scents to help your pup develop and thrive.

   They have created a safe and clean environment where your pup can begin learning house-training as early as a couple weeks old. They have invested in different toys and apparatus’ to enrich your pup’s mind and activate their muscles and growth.

   They are creating safe socialization opportunities and exposing your future pup to different kinds of people, different noises, car rides, and other experiences that will help them adjust seamlessly to your home and grow into a wonderful dog.

   They are also carting all the pups off to the vet as needed for microchips or vaccines or deworming. They may have already completed some advanced testing like BAER for hearing or CAER for eyesight - working with veterinary specialists to give you the most information possible about your new best friend.

   They will be creating a package of information to send home with you, including everything from training and socialization to vaccines and nutrition. They will have registered your pup with a reputable kennel club and provide you with all of this information. (side note - I sometimes hear the Continental Kennel Club referred to as “CKC”. The only reputable CKC is the Canadian Kennel Club. The Continental Kennel Club would happily register my shoe if I provided them with the registration fee.)

   They will have a contract that outlines your and their responsibilities and usually highlights that your pup will always have a safe space with them if they ever need to come back for any reason.

3. The support for the rest of your pup’s life

   When you take your new pup home, your breeder will sit with you and go through a ton of information. It will be overwhelming, but that’s okl! They will just be a call or email away! You not only have a new best friend in your pup, you have lifetime support from their devoted breeder. You have someone who can give you advice, who can help introduce you to dog sports, who can guide you through challenging puppy teenage stages, and someone who will celebrate every win, every achievement, every victory as enthusiastically as you do.

   Finding the right breeder is crucial. They are the one making and growing your future best friend. The right breeder might not have a pup ready for your preferred timeline, but the right breeder is absolutely worth the wait. Also, great breeders are happy to refer you to other great breeders - so finding one right breeder can lead to more and may find you the perfect pup at the perfect time!

Why not a long coat Dal? Or a Lemon?

Like many breeds, Dalmatians have coat varieties that are naturally occurring but “out of standard”. What that means is these colours or types would be a disqualification in the show ring as they are not allowed in the official written standard of the breed.

It is interesting to note that neither Lemon nor Long Coated Dals were originally part of the bred. Black, Liver, and Tri are the colours mentioned historically.

Why do I care about the show ring?

Whether or not you are planning to show your future pup, you should definitely work with a breeder who is breeding “to standard”. Why? Because breeding to standard means we preserve the historical look of the breed that we are so passionate about. Breeding to standard, in Dalmatians, also means that we are producing sound dogs that move properly and retain their historical athleticism.

Within every planned pairing there will be pups who are not destined for the show ring. Perhaps they have an adorable patch like gorgeous Taffy from our Cabin in the Woods litter. Maybe they have generous spotting like beautiful Random. Maybe they have a blue eye (which is allowed in AKC but not in any other kennel club because of the link to higher rates of deafness). These fabulous pups still make wonderful pets and are often great candidates for performance because reputable breeders are breeding for sound conformation and stable temperaments.

Why aren’t these colours/coat types allowed?

There are many theories on why some of the out-of-standard colours are not allowed. Maybe in their historical role as a coach dog the lighter-coloured lemon spots made them harder to see? Maybe the longer coat was a pain to deal with in an endurance breed who is running through all types of brush, brambles, and mud? Regardless, the written standard for the Dalmatian states short coat and liver and white or black and white. Full stop.

Are there health issues associated with these off-standard colours or coat?

Not related to the actual colour or coat itself, BUT, I am extremely confident in saying there will be more health issues within the population of dogs being bred FOR these coat colours and types.

Reputable breeders are breeding to the standard. Breeders who choose to focus on a coat type or colour are working with a population that is VERY small. After generations of reputable breeders selecting AWAY from dogs who produce off-standard colours and long coats and/or running genetic panels to avoid dogs carrying these genes, there are very few lemon, tri, blue, or long-coated Dals out there.

If a breeder is focusing on producing lemon, long coat, tri, or blue, their available gene pool is very small. In order to produce an uncommon colour of coat, they will have to compromise somewhere else, resulting in choosing pairings that include poor conformation (which will increase the risk of joint issues), no health testing or ignoring poor health testing results (which will increase the risk of the issues reputable breeders are testing to avoid like hip dysplasia, autoimmune thyroiditis, vision issues, etc), and choosing dogs with unstable temperaments.

Whenever a breeder is laser-focused on one attribute, other pieces of the puzzle are neglected. There just *isn’t* a population of healthy, health-tested, great conformation, stable temperament Dals carrying long coat or a recessive colour.

Can these off-colours/long coats appear in a reputable litter?

Sure, it is just super uncommon. Not every breeder is running a genetic panel to look for long coat and recessive colours. Reputable breeders are balancing so many different things: overall health, specific health testing, conformation, temperament, working drive, spotting pattern, etc. – knowing a dog in the pairing carries long coat or a recessive colour may not change the decision of the breeder.

For my pairings, my goal is to produce dogs that conform to the standard, dogs that could do well in the conformation ring, dogs with fabulous temperaments and great workability, using dogs with extensive health testing and fantastic test results. I am not concerned if I produce a heavily marked puppy that won’t be in the conformation ring but is a fantastic obedience or agility dog and a loving family member. I also wouldn’t be concerned if I produced a (wholly unexpected) long coat pup, or a lemon pup. I wouldn’t select for an off-standard pup and I wouldn’t breed from an off-standard dog. But health, temperament, and conformation trumps all else for me.

What about breeders with off-standard dogs who are doing health testing?

I am thrilled whenever I see complete health testing (as long as breeders are actually taking results into account, not just doing the testing then still proceeding with whatever pairing they wish). However, one generation of health testing is insufficient. The great reputable breeders out there are choosing pairings where you can look back on multiple generations of health testing and make decisions based on more than one isolated generation. The best chance of producing healthy pups who live long and healthy lives is to study multiple generations of pedigrees both for health testing results AND for occurrences of issues we don’t yet have a test for.

***side note When referring to genetic testing to determine what colours or coat varieties a dog may carry, I am referring to something like an Embark panel. Although this is potentially valuable (and interesting!) information, it is very important to remember that genetic testing, like Embark, is NOT = to “health testing”. Dalmatians (and any breed) should not be bred without the full health testing recommended by their breed club, ideally reported publicly to OFA and assigned their CHIC number that demonstrates those tests have been done. ***

The best pups come from the best breeders

Preservation breeders are those reputable breeders who are working to preserve the breed standard and breed type and are producing happy, healthy, sound, and stable puppies.

For your spotty best friend, work with a breeder who is doing all the appropriate health testing (or more!), a breeder who is breeding to standard to preserve this special breed and their historical look and function, a breeder who is proving their dogs in AND outside the show ring, a breeder who is demonstrating fantastic temperaments, and a breeder who will provide the lifetime of support you and your puppy deserve.

Walk away…even when it’s hard

All puppies deserve an amazing home. Buying a pup from a disreputable breeder will simply encourage them to continue breeding. If you see a pup (or dog) that seems to be in poor condition, PLEASE call the appropriate authorities. It’s our job to advocate for these animals whenever we see them in distress. Support the rescue organizations who are helping these animals instead of supporting the people who are breeding them.

Not only is purchasing a pup from a poor situation encouraging that breeder to continue breeding, but puppies from poor breeders are also missing out on all the socialization and enrichment that sets them up to be wonderful family members.

Dalmatians are such an incredible breed. You deserve to get a happy, healthy, stable, and sound puppy that will be the perfect fit for your family.

These are a few of our favourite things…

We don't (unfortunately, haha) profit from any of these links; these are just the products we use and love.

Whenever possible, we choose to support Canadian makers and small businesses.

Collars & Leashes

Biothane:

Because they are essentially swamp monsters, the Spotters primarily wear biothane.

We have several collars from That’s So Fetch. I have been super impressed with quality and customer service. They have a fantastic range of colour options and can customize. They made our puppy gifts for their Birthday celebration :).

A good friend bought us the full range of colour-coordinated leashes from Nose & Hearts. They are super soft but still really durable. I love them so much that I bought a matching one for Murdie and got several long lines as well.

Fancy Biothane:

For printed collars, I love Ninja Bling. Great customer service and really good quality. They created the “ribbon” collars I got to celebrate the first time the Spotters were the top 3 Dals in Rally. They also have nice blingy collars :).

For blingy biothane - there are A LOT of companies out there. The Dog Nerd Designs is a Canadian option.

Leather Collars:

It’s hard to go wrong with Kokolati. No customs (anymore) but great designs and great quality.

For some more niche/unique options, I really like Merriterrier.

I have a couple customs from Baker River that I am very happy with.

Cloth/Fabric Collars:

Our favourite fabric maker, Cookie & Clovis, has temporarily closed their shop. Highly recommend them when they re-open; extremely impressive work, super durable.

Murdie has a couple collars from Homestretch Horse & Hound and I have been really happy with how they’re holding up.

Weight Pull

It is essential for your dog's safety to have a proper weight pull harness. I love my harnesses from Brown Dog Designs, but they're retired now. I've heard good things about Stomper Harnesses and have a friend who recently ordered from Carol Lee Dods and is happy with her new harness.

These harnesses typically take a few months to make, so if you are planning an event or a practice get your order in early!

Mushing

Harnesses

We are very happy with our gear from AKKO Sports. We use their harnesses and their lines. I have harnesses that we’ve put hundreds of kms on and they still look great. Their “off the rack” sizes fit our dogs well.

Rigs

I love my Pawtrekker scooter. I have had it for almost 7 years, used it a ton, and it still looks new. They do sometimes come up used, so it’s worth keeping an eye out.

I adore my rig from Canicycle; though I haven’t put near enough kms on it yet!

I also love getting the dogs out on my fatbike. For a bike, you will need an antenna. This is a good one from Non-stop Dogwear.

Kennels

We are thrilled with our super safe, well-ventilated, and not-too-heavy-to-move kennels from Zinger. They are a serious investment (not bad for one, adds up for 5) but definitely worth it.

We have two KBC that we use for shows. Their ingenious design means they pack down flat. They are super durable and incredibly safe, my only complaint is they are also incredibly heavy. However, I still love them and definitely recommend them.

I will keep updating this as I think of more of our favourite things!

Is it ever ok to rehome a dog?

Often, I'll see people talking about a "forever home" (or furever 🙄).

The ideal absolutely IS dogs landing in the right home where they're living their best life and are their human's best friend.

The best way to accomplish this, IMO, is to do some solid research before choosing a breed, being realistic about what you want AND what you can provide, then working with an awesome breeder to be matched with the right pup.

I do think the matching is a crucial piece. Within every breed and within every litter there will be a range of temperaments and energy levels and a variety of personalities. The best chance of a forever home is the right match.

I use a combo of my nearly 24 hrs a day experience with my pups including watching them in a vast array of different experiences  + an independent temperament test + expert conformation evaluations to match the right puppy to the right home. Both sides of the equation should feel ĺike they've won the lottery!

And what if it's not the right match? Or life changes and your home is no longer allowing your dog to live its best life?

Its OK to rehome a dog.

As the human animal bond continues to evolve and dogs are given ever greater status as our family and best friend all rolled into one, our knee jerk reaction is to be appalled that someone could consider rehoming their dog.

And that makes 100% sense. These remarkable creatures we share our lives with deserve to be *cherished*. But this deep love of dogs and desire to see them in forever homes has morphed into shaming people who rehome their dogs.

Sometimes.....rehoming is not just ok, it's the right thing to do.

Please note....I said rehome. Not dump at the shelter. Not abandon. Not sell on kijiji. I'm using "rehome" as short form for: carefully choose the home where this beloved dog will shine, be valued, and live their best life.

Those of you who have worked with great breeders for your dog? There's a good chance your breeder has a clear and strict policy that if your home is no longer the right place, the dog goes back to the breeder. My contract sure does. No matter what, no matter when, my puppies will always have a home where they were loved first.

I love my dogs more than anything in the world (sorry Brad). I can't imagine the sheer desolation of them not being in my life. So how can I say I think it's OK to rehome?

A friend summed it up the best when she said "there's nothing wrong with rehoming when it's in the dog's best interests". The dog's. That's who I'm focused on in this equation.

Breeders placing retired dogs in loving homes where they'll be the focus of attention instead of keeping all their older dogs and splitting attention between up and coming show dogs, breeding dogs, new litters, and the whole retired household? Yeah, I can see how that's in the dog's best interests.

Good breeders are placing their retired show and/or breeding dogs with the same care that they place their puppies. Striving to find that right home. That best chance at a forever home. (Side note, the same people who vilify breeders for placing retired dogs will jump on breeders for keeping "too many" dogs 🙄).

Dogs not getting along after months of training and work? Envisioning crate and rotate for the rest of their lives and opting to find the right fit for one of the dogs instead? Yeah, I can see how that's in the dog's best interests.

Dramatic change in your life that changes your income or available time or living situation in such a drastic way that you no longer feel you can appropriately care for your dog? Yeah, I can see how that's in the dog's best interests.

Most every other relationship in our lives is considered forever until it no longer as serves both parties well. Marriages end. Long-term relationships dissolve. Friendships fade away. We change. Life changes. Sometimes you need to reevaluate your situation.

I'd rather see someone responsibly rehome a dog than keep a dog and have it languish in a crate for most of the time. Or be unable to afford appropriate care. Or cause a level of stress to people and dog that isn't healthy for anyone.

So, it's OK to rehome a dog.

What about those people who sell dogs when they're no longer valuable to them? Send old dogs off to new breeders instead of finding retirement homes? Give up as soon as something is challenging? That's not in the dog's best interests, it's in yours. Shame on you.

Rehoming a beloved dog will be heartwrenching. Toxic dog book will come for you. But if you're doing it for the right reasons, what's best for your dog, then that's all that really matters.

How Much is that Doggie in the Window?

First, please don’t buy that puppy in the window….seriously. Puppies from pet stores are sourced from a range of breeders, from the worst of the puppy mills to well-run commercial operations. Although one end of the spectrum is much better, it still isn’t where I would choose to source a puppy.

Why go to a breeder?

For the record, I am a HUGE fan of reputable rescues and shelters. I started my career in animal health at the local humane society. It was (and still is!) a well-run organization dedicated to helping animals in need, educating the general public, and adopting dogs and cats (and occasionally other critters) into new homes.

There are wonderful shelters and rescues across the country that could be excellent resources for your next pet. Whether you choose to shop at a shelter or through a rescue, or shop with a breeder, do so responsibly.

I personally choose to go to great breeders for my dogs because:

• I am looking for healthy animals that will have a long life with me.

Am I saying that rescue dogs aren’t healthy? NO.

What I am saying is that my puppy from a breeder who is doing all the relevant health testing to help prevent issues and produce healthy puppies is giving me the best chance at a healthy pup, minimizing the risk for breed predispositions, and giving me a demonstrable reasonable expectation for a long-lived dog.

• I am looking for a stable, sound temperament dog that will enjoy traveling with me, have no issues being around other dogs, comfortably manage crowds, and have an appropriate temperament to train and compete in a variety of sports and events.

Am I saying rescue dogs have inherently unstable temperaments? NO.

There are many wonderful dogs in rescue that will make wonderful pets. However, not knowing the temperament of their sire and dam (and many other relatives), not knowing how they were raised and whether they benefitted from early enrichment programs, and not knowing how they react to different situations and stresses makes it harder to know they will be the right fit for my lifestyle.

• I am looking for dogs that conform to their standard who could grow into conformation prospects.

Am I saying that rescue dogs/out-of-standard dogs are less deserving of homes? NO.

All dogs deserve a loving home where they will be cherished. For my personal goals, I choose dogs with a future in the show ring.

What about cost?

Often the first question a prospective family asks a breeder is, “how much are your puppies?”. This apparent focus on cost can feel off-putting to a breeder who has poured their heart, soul, and a significant portion of their bank account into their puppies. However, it absolutely makes sense.

A Range Rover would fit my needs for space, rugged capabilities, and towing capacity. A Range Rover would not, however, fit my budget. It’s reasonable to know costs before getting too far into a conversation.

There is a perception that well-bred dogs are prohibitively (or unnecessarily) expensive. Although you can certainly spend more on a dog, many well-bred pups of many different breeds will fall around the $2,500 mark.

Comparing cost to cost – this is more than most rescues; although prices vary WILDLY, you can expect to pay $750 for a rescue dog. Let’s unpack the price of that purebred dog.

First, most great breeders are not making a ton of money from breeding. For many breeders, breeding is a passion. Breeders are invested in the breed and want to contribute positively, preserving breed standards, improving health, improving temperament, etc. It isn’t uncommon for a breeder to lose money on a litter (health costs can accumulate quickly, you may end up with fewer puppies than anticipated, etc.), and breeders are okay with that – they aren’t in it for the money.

Of course, breeders can also make money off a litter. No health concerns, more pups than anticipated, and they can come out a bit ahead. However, any “profit” will be invested right back into their dogs. More shows, more health testing, maybe a new acquisition as a potential future breeding dog, and of course, more toys and treats, haha.

The cost behind a litter will vary immensely in different breeds and situations. As a rough estimate, here is what one litter could cost:

• Acquire dam: $2,500

• Show dam to Championship: $1,000 (this could be WAY more or less depending on travel, show fees, etc.)

• Show dam in performance sports to demonstrate great temperament: $1,000 to infinity!

• Health test dam: $2,000 (again – this number can be all over the map depending on where you live and the cost of vet care, what tests your breed needs, etc.)

• Progesterone test leading up to breeding: $750

• Stud fee: $1,500

• Appropriate nutrition throughout pregnancy: $250

• Whelping supplies: $1000

• Appropriate pre-natal deworming: $50

• Puppy food: $250

• Puppy vet checks + deworming + microchips: $1,000

• Puppy first vaccines: $1,000

• Puppy health tests (in my breed, we test hearing with BAER before pups go home) $1,000

• Puppy toys: So much $.....

• Cleaning supplies etc.: $250

So – pups are ready to go home, and we have invested an easy $13,550. Let’s say you have a nice litter size of 8. So 8 x $2500 = 20,000. Except you kept one, so $17,500.

In theory, you are ahead $3,950. But of course, that hasn’t accounted for time off work, so let's say lost wages of at least $1,500. So now you are down to a profit of $2,450.

Success! You can pay for the expenses of the pup you kept and buy some more kibble! Maybe enter another show!

Any profit can be easily wiped out by one unexpected vet visit. C-section? $3,000. Sick puppy? $2,000. The bills can add up quickly!

Okay, anyway, back to the cost of a well-bred pup – what does that cost get YOU as the owner?

Well, a fully health-tested pairing gives you the best chance of a healthy pup. Not everything can be tested for, and not every test will mean the pups aren’t at risk. But completing all the breed club-recommended health testing gives your pup a head start.

That time off work? The breeder was spending every minute with your future pup. Exposing them to new experiences, doing early neurological stimulation to help make them more resilient, giving them a head start with socialization and exposing them (safely) to a wide range of people, teaching them the beginnings of good puppy behaviour, and setting them up for success.

Your breeder was also getting to know each puppy SO well that they could place them in the absolute perfect home.

When you bring your new bundle of joy home, you’re bringing home a piece of that breeder’s legacy (and their heart). You’re bringing home a piece of the entire pedigree, so every lovingly, carefully planned litter behind your new furry best friend. You’re bringing home a puppy that was so deeply loved already that they have a great start in life.

Adopting from a well-run rescue or shelter can absolutely come with a cheaper price tag. And a rescue dog may be the absolute perfect fit for your family!

Be really honest about your needs/your household needs and decide what breed/type of dog is the right fit. Be honest about your goals and what you need in a new addition to be the right fit.

When my brother decided he wanted a dog, he had two young children. He was planning to go to his local shelter. We talked about what his household needed. He needed a dog with a stable temperament who could be a safe and wonderful companion for his kids (with appropriate supervision and training). He needed a healthy dog who could join his active family on hikes and adventures. He needed a dog who could get along with other dogs in his neighbourhood and at the schoolyard when he picked up and dropped off his kids. Ultimately, we decided a well-bred purebred would fit and found a fantastic breeder. His dog is the absolute perfect dog for him.

We all deserve to have our perfect dog.

What do dogs cost? Everything. All of it. And they’re worth so much more.

Are LUA Dalmatians the future?

Maybe? Probably at least in some capacity.

Why not now? Why not 100%?

I often hear people speak about the LUA program as though it’s the answer to everything. I frequently read statements like “no reputable breeder wouldn’t be incorporating LUA dogs!” (usually confidently stated by someone not in the breed….). Why isn’t every breeder incorporating LUA Dalmatians into their program?

First things first, what is an LUA Dalmatian?

The Dalmatian Backcross Project started in 1973 with an outcross using an AKC-registered Champion Pointer bred to an AKC-registered Dalmatian dam.

The project was started to address the Dalmatian’s genetic predisposition to forming urate urinary crystals.

In the AKC, LUA Dalmatians have a unique registration number; in the CKC they do not.

Truth in advertising

The LUA backcross corrects the predisposition to urate urinary crystals and stones, however I regularly see LUA breeders touting that their programs prevent urinary issues, which is simply inaccurate.

The LUA program does nothing to address the risk of the two most common urinary crystals in dogs, Struvite and Calcium Oxalate.

Female Dalmatians, with their wide urethra, are more likely to have an issue with struvite crystals and stones (more than 90% due to an underlying infection) than they are to have an issue with urate.

Why doesn’t every program use LUA dogs?

Quality breeding is much more than breeding two purebred dogs together. Quality preservation breeding is more than breeding two quality dogs together!

When breeders are deciding on a pairing, their goal is to produce the healthiest, soundest puppies with confident, great temperaments, and conformation and markings that adhere to the written standard for the breed. There is SO much to balance!

Is it just about the spots?
I regularly see accusations that Dalmatian breeders are avoiding LUA dogs solely because their spotting tends to be markedly different. Let’s be honest; the spotting pattern is definitely different in most LUA dogs vs. most HUA dogs.

In a litter with both LUA and HUA puppies, you can be pretty accurate with a guess on who is who long before genetic testing is done.

Dalmatians are a uniquely marked breed. They are the world’s only truly spotted breed. As someone who’s received a fair bit of nastiness about my heavily marked girls, I get how it can seem like all the breed focuses on is spotting….but that isn’t the barrier here.

Don’t get me wrong, I am sure there are “spot purists” out there who will continue to avoid the inclusion of LUA dogs in their breeding programs, but MOST breeders are not making the choice based solely on spotting, but rather due to dogs generally lacking in merit.

There are so many different things to balance when striving to breed quality dogs….temperament, structure, health, movement, drive/workability…. With only a fraction of Dalmatians being LUA and a distressingly large portion of those dogs lacking in merit for various reasons, there’s often not the right LUA dog to incorporate into a program.

The potential of LUA

I believe the LUA program has A LOT of potential. Solving a genetic predisposition is a lofty and worthwhile goal! However, a significant number of LUA breeders (not all!) are laser-focused on LUA, often at the expense of other health concerns, poor health testing, poor temperaments, or are producing dogs who are generally lacking in any discernible breed type (meaning they do not bear significant resemblance to the breed standard).

In my experience within the breed, there is not a prejudice against LUA, but rather excellent breeders are continuing to make what they believe to be the best choices to create overall healthy, sound puppies.

Should all Dalmatians be LUA?

Short answer? No

Longer answer? Working our way to 100% LUA would create a significant lack of genetic diversity within the breed. There are plenty of cautionary tales where other breeds have neglected to maintain genetic diversity to the detriment of overall health.

Although every HUA Dalmatian does have the genetic predisposition to forming urate urinary crystals and stones, in the majority of well-bred Dalmatians, this increased risk can be managed with appropriate food, sufficient water intake, and frequent trips outside to empty the bladder.

Every breed has predisposition to health issues. Overall, Dalmatians are a robust and healthy breed. I’d rather deal with an increased risk of one type of urinary crystal than a risk of epilepsy, a significant risk of cancer, or a devastating diagnosis like Dilated Cardiomyopathy.

We are very fortunate the average Dalmatian lives a long healthy life.

What does the future hold?

While dedicated LUA breeders continue to produce improved quality, dedicated HUA breeders will continue to pair dogs carefully to decrease the incidence of deafness, breed away from the risk of CSD, and to create healthy, stable, confident, conformationally sound, beautiful dogs.

Hopefully, the future will hold an era where more breeders are willing to work together, based on a mutual understanding and willingness to be honest and transparent - on both sides of the equation. Cooperation will allow LUA Dalmatians to improve which will make them more attractive to incorporate into programs.